German Viticulture in Crisis – But Is It Just About Saving Wine?
Ingelheim, July 2025 – The newly formed association “Zukunftsinitiative Deutscher Weinbau e. V.” (Future Initiative for German Viticulture) has issued an urgent warning: up to 60 per cent of Germany’s winemaking families could face bankruptcy within months if nothing changes. Founder Thomas Schaurer, himself a winemaker, describes the situation as an existential crisis for the industry – and for Germany’s cultural landscape.
Falling Prices, Rising Pressure
At the heart of the issue are plummeting wholesale prices. Bulk wine is reportedly being sold for as little as €0.40 per litre – far below the average production cost of €1.20. For many small and medium-sized winemakers, that gap is simply unsustainable. “Who can afford to lose money year after year?” Schaurer asks.
But the crisis raises a broader question: What exactly is it that needs saving?
Culture, Landscape, and Alcohol
The association frames the issue as a threat to German culture, rural identity, and scenic landscapes shaped by viticulture. There is no doubt that wine festivals, vineyard tourism, and centuries-old family traditions play a role in local economies and identities.
However, the romantic image of wine production often overshadows a more sober reality: wine is, first and foremost, an alcoholic beverage, and alcohol consumption is linked to serious public health risks. According to the World Health Organisation, no level of alcohol consumption is entirely safe. In that context, calls for rescuing a sector centred on alcohol production should be examined carefully, especially when framed as protecting a “cultural good.”
Beauty Is in the Eye of the Beholder
The argument that the disappearance of vineyards would lead to the loss of “entire cultural landscapes” also deserves scrutiny. While many value the aesthetic and historical role of vineyards, others may see them as monocultures, barriers to biodiversity, or reminders of overproduction. Whether vineyard-covered hillsides are beautiful or problematic often depends on perspective.
A Call to Consumers – But What Are We Choosing?
Through its campaign “Dein Wein von hier” (“Your Local Wine”), the association urges consumers to support regional producers by buying more German wine at fair prices. It also demands minimum prices for both bulk and bottled wine to ensure economic sustainability.
Yet this campaign places the burden squarely on consumers to “save” an industry whose product, while culturally significant, is not essential and poses known health risks. Supporting local farmers is a valid goal, but so is acknowledging that the global shift toward reduced alcohol consumption is not merely a trend – it’s a public health movement.
Conclusion: A Complex Debate
The crisis in German winegrowing is real for those affected, particularly small producers facing financial ruin. But the broader discussion should not shy away from the complexities: the health risks of alcohol, the evolving consumer landscape, and the question of what kinds of agriculture and cultural preservation are truly in the public interest.
In the end, it’s not just about saving vineyards – it’s about deciding what values and priorities shape the future of rural life in Germany.
